Safari!

Cape Buffalo showing their intimidating strength

This pregnant mama cheetah casually strolled between our vehicles, offering us a spectacular viewing

Baby baboons always entertained us with their antics

Wildebeest on the move in search of water

Jim on point

After a week’s vacation in various Tanzanian delights, the group reunited in the northern town of Arusha, the launch pad for safaris and Kilimanjaro hikers.  Driving west towards the Serengeti, we saw parched, over-grazed land with barely any grass left-- the result of normal dry season, multi-year droughts, and too many hungry Maasai cattle and goats, Dusty villages scattered along the way sold bottled water, phone minutes and candy bars.

Maribu stork in our camp on rim of Ngorogoro Crater

As we crossed into Serengeti Park, we entered an area made green by the first rains of the wet season. Thousands of Thompson’s gazelles and zebras grazing on grass that had sprung up almost overnight created inspiring entry to the next two weeks of our journey through several national parks in northern Tanzania and then a month in a  camp where students did their individual research projects.  At the beginning of the wet season, over a million animals migrate south to the Serengeti to access the rich grazing there. Lines of wildebeest several kilometers long trudging single file with occasional surges of stampedes for no apparent reason were jaw-dropping sights. The wildebeest were often accompanied by hundreds of zebras and different species of gazelles, all relying on one another to spot predators in the area. We had great luck with seeing large cats—hearing a leopard in a tree crunching the bones of an impala, a very pregnant cheetah walking within a few meters of our vehicle, and many lions including cubs that tried to plop down in the shade of our car.  Babies of all species drew the most ooohs and aaahs, keeping us entertained with their antics. Carol kept a list of birds she identified each day – to date she’s seen over a hundred new species and has had fun sharing her love of birds with many students.  From our campsite at night we heard hyenas yipping and reveled in limitless stars overhead.  Iconic orange sunrises and sunsets with the bizarre baobab trees in the foreground kept looking like glossy covers of coffee table photo books except we were living in the photos.

Beading lesson with Maasai womens' cooperative

An integral part of the Serengeti are the indigenous peoples here, most prominently the Maasai tribe. We were thrilled to be able to live within a small village for a few days, participating in daily life and coming to a better understanding of their culture and the challenges facing them with shrinking land and water resources for their cattle grazing and efforts by the government to elicit their participation in conservation efforts.  It was fascinating to discuss, via interpreters, the dilemma of children attending school and learning the ways of the world which is so very different and challenging to their traditional pastoral lifestyle. We also visited another tribe, the Datoga,who are similar to the Maasai in some ways with cow ownership and living in small mud homes but they use an intriguing mix of tools that are from the stone age and iron age.  Jim and I laughed hard with one family (one husband, eight wives and multiple cows and kids) when the wives asked how we survive with no cows and how poor Jim seemed with only one wife and one child.  When I was asked what my job was back home, the best explanation for a social worker seemed to come out somewhere between a midwife and a witch doctor.  I got big smiles and nods from the women who seemed pleased with my career.  Curiosity and mutual respect was there for all of us from both sides of the cultural divide.  

Visiting various archaeological sites was another highlight as we traveled through northern Tanzania:  Laetoli and Oldupai Gorge have many sites with uncovered evidence of our ancestors, and  the famous Leakey’s spent their lives dedicated to uncovering footprints, skulls and extinct animal species that wandered the landscape that was so much lusher than now. 

After leaving the Serengeti we visited several places (Lake Eyasi, Ngorogoro Crater, Lake Manyara) and then established a more permanent camp just outside the boundary of Tarangire Park where students conducted research. Ecology students were on safari for most of 3 weeks, cultural anthropology students went into Maasai bomas (compounds) to conduct interviews and archaeology/geology students excavated an extinct elephant with evidence of tools that they discovered literally the first day in the field.   It has been an amazing time for everyone with fascinating stories swapped every meal time.

Painting in the heat was a fun challenge that usually failed 

  It’s mostly hot and dry in northern Tanzania, making it hard to imagine leaves gone from trees and winter winds blowing back home in Colorado.  Cool mountain air sounds pretty good right now as I sit in my red plastic chair (my 60^th birthday present from Jim)  outside our tent under the shade of an acacia tree.  The neighbors’ cows and goats have broken through the living fence once again so are munching happily on the bushes all around me. Birds of every exotic color are singing and flitting about.  The hot winds suck all moisture out of my acrylic paints before they even get on the paper so I haven’t been painting during this time.  Jim’s found the pace a little more relaxing since leaving Dar.  He has thoroughly enjoyed going on safari and learning from local biologists and archaeologists while letting the contracted safari company manage most of the logistics.  And still no malaria for any of us.........

Much love to all,

Jim and Carol

Acacia trees offer shade for many but food for only the tallest of wildlife.

Zanzibar!!!!

It's been a month since our last posting and I'm having a difficult time condensing this rich experience into a few brief paragraphs.  We have been busy with 22 students coming and going to our house throughout the days to use the mostly reliable wi-fi for their important tasks such as  and  homework for their 4 classes plus FaceBook under the cooling ceiling fan.  Jim seems to spend his days either glued to his computer or negotiating the labyrinth of  various officials to get national park permits, residency status, a local bank account, bus drivers and tour guides. Nothing is straight forward here and the inefficiency is profound, causing countless delays and detours. Prices seem quite fluid, requiring constant negotiating whether it be for market items or tour guides.  Jim's patience has grown quite philosophical about it all, riding it out with the local saying "hakuna shida" - no problem.

Zanzibar spice market

A fantastic long weekend trip to the off shore island of Zanzibar was a true highlight for all of us. The island has a long history of successive occupations by Arabs, Germans and British who all left their mark.  The Muslim culture is now dominant and although Zanzibar is officially a part of Tanzania it has held on to its rich heritage.  The island is famous for its spice trade of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon and uniquely carved wooden doors that hide the lushness of Arabic courtyards with tropical greenery and mosaic lined fountains.  Winding stone streets filled with small shops and open air markets are easy to get lost in.  Fishermen ply the seas all around the island in their triangular sailed dhows and women grace the streets in their brightly colored flowing shawls and long dresses.  The pace is slower on the island, lulling visitors into a more relaxed mode.  It was delightful.

Another great field trip was an archaeological tour of the National Museum in Dar es Salaam which houses many artifacts that have been unearthed here in Tanzania, most notably by the Leakey family find of Prosthyothithicus **** a 2.5 million year old hominid skull.  It was so amazing to be present with such ancient evidence of our evolution to this point in time.

An endangered Red Colobus monkey setting the tone on Zanzibar 

The classroom section of the program is now completed and students are off adventuring independently for a week before the 6 weeks of field camp begins up north in the land of the Serengeti and Maasai.  Jim and I will be taking the ferry back to Zanzibar for some R&R for a few days before joining them for the next stage of this incredible experience.  It will be fun to hear the students' stories from their time hiking, going on safari and snorkeling coral reefs. Jim and I will be in Dar, wrapping up work details and then heading back to the island of Zanzibar for some rest ourselves.  We'll keep you posted and as always, know that we think of you all and look forward to hearing from you when you get a chance.

Badaaye (later in Kiswahili)

Jim and Carol

Night food vendor down by the harbor where nothing's a set price

3 students at the Slave Market Memorial

Zanzibar selfie

Back yard banded mongoose

Dhow returning to harbor with day's catch

Carol's painting in anticipation of the next section of the course - Safari!

The students are here!

Cleaned mosquito nets headed for the dorms.

It's been a month since our last post and much has happened in that time.
 The students arrived 2 and 1/2 weeks ago and we've been on the go ever since.  They are a great bunch of curious, assertive, intelligent and adventurous college students taking full advantage of this amazing adventure.  We started them off with a couple of days of orientation about how to be safe and polite on and off campus. Safe transportation (how many people really fit in a daladala (local bus)? Always one more!),  proper attire for when on University campus (skirts below the knee and covered shoulders for the females, long pants and shirts for the guys), local eateries and survival strategies for dorms that often lose power and running water.  Welcome to Tanzania, everyone!  Being college students, they quickly adjusted to the new situation and began independent explorations of the nearby markets, beaches on the Indian Ocean, volunteer opportunities for tutoring English and woodcarving with local woodworkers.

No, this wasn't the boat that took us over to the island!!!

Great introduction to the Indian Ocean

Jim and I hung in there with them for Kiswahili class for the first 2 weeks even though we rarely had time to study, but now in the 3rd week the need to do other tasks and the pace of the class has just become too much for us to keep up with them so we've had to regretfully bow out--disappointing but not unexpected.  However, our house security guards and indoor helper have been more than willing to teach us useful phrases and are patient with our stumbling speech.  Our plan is to keep learning new vocabulary so we can at least get our point across when bargaining for our fresh fruit and vegetables in the markets (the avocados and mangos are wonderful).



We have gone on two fun weekend field trips to get off campus and out of town.  The first was a short boat ride to a tropical island with mangroves (complete with a sleepy python), snorkeling over coral replete with colorful fish and even a wildly contorting, poisonous looking sea snake and gaping moray eels.  All very exciting.  Most people came back worn out from the surf and sand, feeling dehydrated, sunburned and happy.

Fish market with prawns getting deep fried over wood fires

Cultural contacts like this are the best

A work of art;  3 hours for a hairstyle that lasts 2-3 weeks

 We had a fascinating overnight trip to a community just north of us on the coast called Bagamoyo.  It's on the World Heritage Site "to be considered" list as it is full of historical information about successive migrations and occupations (Bantus, Omanis, Arabs, Portuguese, Christian missionaries, Germans and British) over the centuries.  It's also known as the end point of the East African slave route from the interior of the continent.  Over a million slaves and tons of ivory were shipped to the Far East, Middle East and the islands off the eastern coast of Africa from this port.  It is a tragic story with ramifications still playing out today in Bagamoyo with the descendants of both slave traders and slaves trying to come to peace with their pasts.  While there we also visited old ruins dating back to the 12th century, complete with fragments of Chinese china plates and coins from India which indicate lively trading that predated any European presence in the area.



One special day at the University of  Dar es Salaam was when about 20 Tanzanian University Kiswahili students came over to the house to visit with our students.  Over a yummy traditional Tanzanian meal we talked Kiswahili/English and established a great foundation for local contacts.  Since then our students have been texting with their news friends and going out to explore Dar from the locals'  perspectives.

Getting to know their Tanzanian peers

Caterer arriving with chairs and food
for our Tanzanian/US student exchange meal.

Paulina gave this lovely "kanga" to Carol, a traditional dress

Carol learning about the local foods

I think while Jim and I are resting up this coming
weekend the students will be heading off to explore the night club scene in Dar es Salaam.  The less we know the better............... but so far (from what we know) they have been very appropriate and safe in their explorations.
This past week we've started having small groups of students join us for dinner.  It's been a great way to share favorite recipes, laugh and get to know one another outside of the more formal classroom settings.

Baobab tree

Jim predicted that the third week, as on other abroad programs he's taught,  is often the slump time when culture shock really hits hard.  Well, this trip has been no exception.  Now that the first excitement has faded and the classes are cranking up in intensity, the reality of life in a developing country is setting in for the students.
We all miss certain things, some more than others; things like toilets that flush consistently, food that tastes like the comfort of home, being able to communicate freely with others on more than a superficial "how are you today?" basis, and having the freedom to go exploring alone without always being concerned about safety. Yet Tanzania is charming us all and we are becoming an increasingly cohesive group as we face challenges together.  What an amazingly  full,  diverse and always a little surprising adventure we are on!

Stay in touch as we always enjoy hearing news from home and we'll keep the posts coming.  

Love to all,
Carol and Jim

Dar es Salaam and Arusha

Dar es Salaam and Arusha

Dear all,

Adorable youngster

Safari smile

Vervet monkeys

Maasai herding 

Run!!!

 Kilemehewa 24 is the name of our home base for the next 5 months, located on the campus of the University of Dar es Salaam, a prestigious hub of learning for Tanzanians. Dar es Salaam bustles with 4 million people from innumerable tribes, Muslims and Christians, long-time city dwellers and recent rural arrivals, and a few Indians and Anglos.  The streets vibrate with the richness of many cultures and the chaos from so many people with inadequate infrastructure.  Driving is a fluid nightmare of cars (private sedans, taxis, some expensive SUV’s), 3-wheeled motorized rickshaws, overcrowded minibuses, large diesel-spewing trucks, pedestrians EVERYWHERE, and peddlers going window to window selling cashews and small electronics.  Yet everyone respects the unspoken rules of the road and is ready to forgive infractions with a gentle humph.  The only honking of horns seems to occur just prior to a near head-on collision, and then the offender slides back into their own lane and life moves on (although we have seen one accident so far).

Marketplaces overwhelm the senses with colorful cotton wraps on men and women, foods and sundry items spread on blankets everywhere, and people milling about seeking the best deal.  There is a supermarket with western foods, many outrageously expensive (a box of raw oats was $10 as it had to be imported and isn’t a food used by the locals) so we gravitate to the more colorful local scene.

The modest amount of Swahili we learned in Colorado serves us well and simultaneously fails to communicate anything complex; we are fortunate so many people speak bits of English.  We look forward to learning more Swahili in class with the students.  Lack of wireless at home still limits our communication with friends and with work contacts, but we purchase minutes on a USB-like device that connects to the internet via the cell phone network.  We eagerly await repair of the wireless so we can both be online simultaneously.

Last week we had a fabulous trip to the north to visit two National Parks (Tarangire and Arusha) so Jim could see where students will spend 4 weeks doing research projects. It was amazing to travel around the parks with an eagle-eyed driver seeing a wonderland of protected animals and birds. Apart from the spectacle of observing at least a thousand wildebeests calmly grazing alongside zebras, elephants, impalas, water bucks and wart hogs …….., we also watched a mother cheetah and her three well grown cubs elude a stalking female lion.  It was a chance of a lifetime.  Jim took a photo of me standing up in the vehicle with a huge grin on my face which probably best epitomizes my experience.

The program we direct offers ACM (Associated Colleges of the Midwest, such a Colorado College, Grinnell, Beloit, Carlton) students the opportunity to immerse themselves in a culture that will challenge their beliefs and values while doing research in their major field of interest. Students come from several disciplines: Biology/Ecology, Archaeology, Anthropology, and Geology.   The archaeology students will participate in a hominid dig, something that few well-seasoned archaeologists have had the opportunity to do.  Anthropology students, with the help of translators, interview locals about a wide variety of topics.  The Ecology/Biology students will study animals and plants in Tarangire National Park or in the campsite we’ll occupy for the 6 weeks we live in the field in tents.

Students arrive in a bit more than a week.  Until then, Jim will plan the orientation and research methods course and will meet with his colleagues at the university.  Together we will learn to navigate the bus system and use the motorized rickshaws, try to see the bushbabies (tiny nocturnal primates) we hear calling in our backyard, and revel in being immersed in a new, vibrant and exciting environment.

Kwaheri (good-bye), 

Carol and Jim

PS it's a concrete elephant chasing Jim